Easy and fast assembly
Multiply the roof length X by the roof width Y to obtain the roof area A. Please see the alternatives in the table. A duct cannot be longer than 10 m.
In order to make the process of bending the brackets along the slope of the roof towards the downpipe easier, mark the places that will need to be bent with a pencil as shown in Figure A. Remember to write down the bracket numbers. The smallest recommended slope is 2.5 mm/m. Start the installation by fixing the highest and lowest brackets. Stretch a rope between them and install the other brackets along the rope. The interval between the brackets must not exceed 60 cm and the brackets must be firmly fastened. If the gutter is longer than 10 m, they must be installed starting from the middle and moving towards the respective downpipes. The long bracket is bent and installed as shown in Figure A and the short brackets – as shown in Figure B. When bending the brackets, make sure that the front edge of the gutter is tilted forward 6 mm with respect to the back edge. Bending is much easier using the Lindab bracket bender. The K11 bracket is already bent and suited for a 270 roof slope, if the boards are joint perpendicularly, and the KFK bracket is precisely aligned for vertical installation.
Mark the distance from the end of the gutter to the place where the pipe will be attached. Cut a hole for connecting the outlet. Use the pliers to bend the edge of the hole down. Do not polish. Attach the bent back edge of the outlet to the back edge of the gutter. Attach the outlet to the front edge of the gutter.
Install the self-sealing gutter stop ends as follows: place the stop end at the end of the gutter and press down. Then hit it with your palm to secure the stop end to the edge of the gutter. Use a hammer to make sure that the stop end is well secured. Stop ends may be installed after fixing the gutter.
If you are using any of the connector brackets, push the duct under the metal edge of the connector. Then press the gutter into the bracket and fix it well. Using the connector brackets allows you to adjust the gutter before or after the installation. If you are using the KFK, KFM or KFL fixed bracket, place the gutter into the bracket and press the gutter into the bracket. If the roof slope is 270, use the K11 bracket. For roofs with different slopes use the K07 bracket, which can be tilted forwards. Secure the gutter in place: bend the end of the bracket over the edge of the gutter.
Fix the back edge of the connector to the back edge of the gutter so that the rubber edge is in the middle of the connector. Place the front edge of the connector over the edge of the gutter, bend the locking mechanism and press. Lock into place.
Determine the length of the downpipe extension
Find the length of the downpipe extension in the table below.
Install the downpipe holders – at least two for each downpipe (one straight over the other). The spacing between the holders must not exceed 2 m. In a brick wall, drill a hole, insert the pin and fasten with a screw. In a wooden wall, use the screw directly. Downpipe holders have locks and are installed as shown in the pictures. If the locks have to be opened, insert a chisel into the opening and open carefully.
Adjust the length of the downpipe extension according to the table above and connect to both downpipe beds. Connect them to the outlet. Fix the downpipe. It may also need length adjustment to be connected to the bottom bend of the downpipe.
Fix the shoe to the downpipe and fasten with a stud or screw. Adjust the whole pipe system and fasten the downpipe holder. In order to connect the system to the surface water drain, use the drain connector and the drain trap.
Carefully clean off even the smallest slivers of piping made by the drill or file. Such particles can corrode and damage the color of the sheet.